Pattern Terminology (Part 2)

Fashion Pattern

Part 2

Landmarks: Designated points (landmarks) around the body that correspond with those of the form. They are used for measuring the body sections when drafting and draping.

Dot mark: A pencil mark indicating a specific point on the pattern or muslin.

Example

A series of dot marks are connected to outline a shape or line on the pattern or muslin.

Pin marking: Placing a series of pins through the muslin or form to evaluate styleline placement.

Tape marking: Styleline placement by tape to evaluate design features, and to provide a guide when draping, or developing design patterns.

Trueing: The blending and straightening of pencil lines, crossmarks, and dot marks for the purpose of establishing correct seam lengths.

                                             Example: Trueing side seam having a side dart.

Blend: A process of smoothing, shaping, and rounding angular lines along a seam for a smooth transition from one point to the next, and for equalizing the discrepancies of joining lines and marks made on the pattern or fabric (muslin).

Blending example

Bust Point: A designated placed on the bust and pattern.

Apex: The highest location of a mound.

Dart: A wedge-shape cutout in a pattern, used as means of controlling the fit of a garment. 

Dart Legs: The two lines that form an open space at the pattern's edge and converge at a predetermined point on the patter.

 Dart Intake: Amount of excess or space confined between dart legs to control the fit of the garment. It purpose is to take up excess where it is not needed, and gradually release fabric where it is needed.

Double-ended dart: Along vertical dart passing through garments having no waistline seam. The dart intake is controlled by two punches and circles placed at the center fold at waist level and 1/8 inch from one side of the dart leg, and 1/4 to 1/2 inch in from the dart at each end.

Uprighting a dart. Moving the dart point so that it takes places the center back or the center front of a garment.

Darts examples on garments.

Pattern Terminology (Part 1)

Fashion Pattern

(Part 1)

Pattern making involves the design and creation of templates from which clothing and craft items can be sewn. Patterns are made of pieces of paper shapes that are traced onto the fabric to be cut, with each individual pattern piece serving as a form for an individual part of the garment or item to be sewn.

Basic knowledge of pattern making terms

Pattern Drafting: A system of pattern making that depends on a series of form or figure measurements to complete the paper pattern.

Pattern Draping: A two-dimensional piece of fabric draped around a form or figure conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimentional fabric pattern.

Basic Pattern Set: A 5-piece pattern set, consisting of a front/back bodice and skirt, and a long sleeve, which represents the dimensions of a specific form or figure.

Working Pattern: Any patterns used as a base for manipulation when design patterns.

Examples: 

    

   

References 
PATTERNMAKING for design by Helen Joseph
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-pattern-making.htm

DRAPING

Many people have asked once in their life, what is the meaning of draping?


Draping is the process of creating clothing patterns on a dress form by taking fabric and manipulating, marking, trueing, blending, and cutting.

What equipment are used in the draping?

1. Carbon Paper

2. French Curve

3. Gingham Fabric

4. Hip Curve

5. L-square Ruler

6. Measuring Tape

7. Muslin Fabric

8. Needlepoint Tracing Wheel

9. Pattern Notcher

10. Pattern Paper

11. Pattern Weights

12. Pencil, eraser and pencil sharpener

13. Pins

14. Scissors

15. Straight-edge Ruler

16. Style Line Tape

17. Vary Form Curve

18. Yardstick

After knowing the materials that you need for the draping. You need to have the knowledge of a dress form.

Examples 

Draping Garments Examples

This dress is from "Maria Barros" Collection 2013 

"Vera Wang" is one of biggest the examples of draping wedding dresses. Collection spring 2010

references:

-Draping Basics by Sally M. Dimarco

Seams

*French seam is a strong narrow seam in which the edges are not visible; usually used for fine fabrics, this seam is sewn twice, first on the right side and then turned in and stitched on the wrong side so that the raw ends of the fabric are enclosed in the seam, leaving a clean, polished, professional look.

Examples:

On real garments.

Tutorial video for make a french seam.

*Tailor's tack  is to transfer  pattern makings to fabric, or to otherwise mark the point where two pieces of fabric are to be joined. A special loose looped stitch used for this purpose. 

Examples: 

How to make a tailor tack (demonstration)

The Hong Kong seam is used when you do not want a lot of bulk along the seam. Therefore, you use a single fold bias strip of fabric (or bias tape). This means the strip of fabric is pressed in half along the length of the strip. A Bound Seam uses a double fold bias strip (or double fold bias tape).

In addition, when using a Hong Kong Finish, the seam allowance will be pressed open. When using a Bound Seam, the seam allowance can be pressed open or sewn together in the binding and pressed to one side.

Examples:

For example in the Christian Dior collection Spring 2014. The designer used hong kong seams on most of the garments.

Tutorial video hong kong finish

References:

*http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/machine-sewn-seam-finishes-hong-kong-bound-seam-part-4-4

*Youtube

*http://www.thefrenchseam.com

*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tack_(sewing)

Couture is the term to refer to high fashion. For example as handmade finishes, good fitting, and exclusive designs.

Examples:

Christian Dior Couture

 Spring 2014 

Valentino 

spring 2014 

ELIE SAAB 

spring 2014

Ready-to-wear is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, in standardized sizes. Also piecesare created using standard patterns, and efficient construction techniques in order to help keep the costs of production down.

Examples:

Ralph Lauren 

Tommy Hilfiger 

2014 spring

LACOSTE 

spring 2014